Suspension
Check for leakage from the dampers. They should be dry and
the bushings should be intact. Also check for any cracks on the suspension
springs, inside tyre walls, damper foundation, propeller shaft joints, etc.
Leakage
Check for any oil leakage from the engine oil sump. Drain
some oil from the sump and rub it against your fingers. The presence of any
gritty metallic substance points toward the erosion of moving engine parts.
Check for leaks and stains.
External Inspection
Sagging
Visually, scan the car from a distance of 15-20 feet.
Observe the stance - does it sag or lean in any direction or does it sit up
high and straight?
Shock absorbers
Press hard on a corner of the car and release your grip. In
case the car keeps rocking up and down, you may need to change the shocks.
Tyres
If they are not of a single brand, then chances are that the
car has done more mileage than what is shown in the odometer. If they are worn
out unevenly, it could be due to under inflation or poor wheel alignment. It
could also indicate that shocks, struts, or a part in the suspension system
needs to be replaced. Do not forget to check the condition of the spare tyre.
Doors
These are one of the main indicators of the actual condition
of the car. Look for a close fit and ease of opening and closing. A door that
fits unevenly may indicate that the car was involved in a collision.
Windshield
Check the windshield and the window glass for cracks.
Trunk
Check the trunk. Is it large enough for your needs? Is there
any rust at the bottom of the trunk well? Does it contain a good spare tyre and
a jack?
Body
Look for rust spots, particularly at the bottoms of fenders,
around lights and bumpers, on splash panels, under doors, in the wheel wells,
and under trunk carpeting. Small "blisters" may indicate future rust
sites. Check for paint that does not quite match, gritty surfaces, and paint
overspray's on chrome - all possible signs of a new paint job, masking body
problems. Look for cracks, dents, and loose bumpers - warning signs of a past
accident.
Gaps
Check all the gaps between the fenders, doors, bonnet and
trunk. Every gap should be even along all its length. Try to inspect all the
gaps in the same way.
Fenders
Take a look at the front fender's edge. It may have
unpainted black spots. This may indicate that the fender has been changed and
repainted (new parts commonly are in black or grey).
Bonnet
Check the bonnet's fastening bolts. In case you notice that
the bonnet has been readjusted from its original position, it is sign that the
car has had an accident.
Paint
It is very difficult to paint some replaced or damaged part
(fender, door, hood, etc.) in exactly the same color as the rest of the car.
Therefore, take a look at the car from all angles from a distance.
Rust spots
Check the floor under the carpet, door bottoms, trunk and
wheel arches. Take a magnet and try to make it cling to the door bottoms and
fenders and other places where you suspect defects or rust spots. If there is
too much filling under the paint, the magnet will not cling.
Tailpipe
Black, gummy soot in the tailpipe may mean worn-out piston
rings or bad valves which may entail expensive overhaul.
Internal Inspection
Lights and mechanical parts
Make sure all head lights, tail lights, brake lights,
back-up lights and direction signals work properly. Test the radio, heater,
air-conditioner and windshield wipers as well.
Cabin
Check the upholstery for major wear and tear. Do not forget
to look under the floor mats and seat covers. Check the steering wheel. When
unlocked, with the engine off, it should have no more than two inches of
"play." Check the inside of the door for any rust, especially at the
bottom. Examine and fasten the seat belts and make sure they are comfortable
and snug. Make sure the seat is comfortable and that adjusts to your needs.
Open the glove box and spend some time looking at the car's repair history and
owner's manual. Check what was done and what was recommended. Look for frequent
oil changes and inspections.
Odometer
Check the dates of repair against the kilometers you see on
the odometer. A car with low mileage, but with a lot of wear on the driver's
seat or on the brake and accelerator pedal, may indicate tampering with the
odometer. A musty smell inside the vehicle could mean that the car was damaged
in a flood or that rain water leaks into the car.
Under the bonnet
Check the battery connections to see that they are clean.
Check the oil level to see that it is full. If you are buying a car with a
warranty, you do not even need to look under the hood. If it makes you feel any
better, go ahead, get out of the car and raise the hood. Look for overspray or
for paint where it is not supposed to be.
Cooling system
Unscrew the radiator cap and peek inside. The coolant level
should be almost full and there should be no oil or foreign material floating
inside. The coolant should be clear light green, but do not panic if it is a
little cloudy - it may just need to be replaced.
Oil pressure
Try to check oil pressure on the cold engine (at least an
hour after the engine was switched off). Start the engine and look at the low
oil pressure warning lamp or oil pressure gauge on the instrument panel. The
time between the engine start and the oil pressure indication on the instrument
panel should be no more than 1 - 2 seconds.
Oil level and leaks
If you find that the oil level is "minimum" or
less on the dipstick, you can suspect that the engine consumes more oil than
what is required. Check the engine thoroughly for oil leaks. The more it leaks,
the worse the engine.
Air filter
Take off the air filter cover and look inside. If you note
the presence of heavy dirt (sand, insects, leaves, etc.), then you may suspect
that the last owner of the car was not paying proper attention to its
maintenance.
Instrument panel
All the warning lights such as those indicating low oil
pressure, low oil level, overheating, etc., should go off after the engine has
been started.
Brake and clutch pedal wear
This indicates how a car has been driven so far. Do not
compare it with the odometer reading, because the latter can be manipulated.
Rubber beading
Check for any cracks in the rubber beading close to the
windshield, outside of glass windows, inside trims, along the roof linings,
etc.
Door hardboards
Slide the glass windows up and down to check that they
operate properly. Check levers such as glass window winder, door opener and
safety lock.
Test Drive
Engine
There should not be any extreme noises, knocking and
whistling during acceleration or idling. If you see steam in the exhaust after
the engine has achieved normal operating temperature, it indicates some cooling
system defect - blown-off head gasket, for instance. (Note, if the engine is
cold or has just started, steam or water pouring out from the exhaust pipe is
okay). In several of the latest cars, there is a sign on the instrument panel
indicating any failure inside the engine.
Smoke
Start the engine. Let it idle for 3-5 minutes. Then press
halfway down the accelerator pedal for 2-3 seconds and tell your friend to
check the smoke from the exhaust pipe.
- Strong
black smoke means the engine is flooded with petrol because of a fuel
system defect or that the spark plugs may not be working.
- Blue
or white-blue smoke means burning of oil because of internal engine
defects (like broken pistons or piston rings).
- White
smoke (steam) is a result of the coolant penetrating into the cylinders.
It could also mean some gasket defect.
Noise
Once the car has warmed up, listen for engine noise as you
drive; unusual sounds may be the signs of major trouble. Drive over rough road
surfaces, watch for unusual vibrations, noises or odour. Make several stops and
starts, at varying, but safe, rates of speed on a clear, level road surface.
Suspension
Drive carefully, close all the windows, switch off the
radio, and listen for any noise. If the car is a front-wheel-drive model, pay
more attention to checking front suspension. If there is any knocking noise,
the suspension has some faults.
Frame
Be a bystander and allow the seller to drive the car on a
flat, muddy terrain. The tyre marks on the front wheels should match those on
the rear ones. If they don't, then the chassis or the frame has been damaged
due to an accident.
On-road performance
The car should accelerate smoothly and should brake without
grabbing, vibrating, or pulling to one side. When you step firmly on the brake
pedal, it should feel firm, not spongy. Try turning at various speeds. Too much
sway or stiffness can mean bad shocks and/or front - rear problems. Turn the
wheel all the way from one side to the other; power steering should feel
smooth, with little or no squealing. In case of worn-out wheel bearings, you
can hear a humming sound which betrays this defect. Also, the noise of the
distorted steering bushings will cause excessive steering column vibration.
Instrument panel
Sit inside the vehicle for a minute while it warms up. Now
is a good time to try the horn, the signals, the lights, and other electrical
items.
Accessories
Play the radio if you want to check out the sound system.
You may want to take your favorite CD when you hunt for cars. Try the
air-conditioner while idling and during high speeds. You might want to turn it
off before going for a test drive to see how the car performs without it. One
can check the pick-up of the car with and without the A/C.
Closing The Deal
Finalizing the deal
After the car has been taken for a final test drive and all
necessary legal documents are put in order, the price has to be finalized. For
most transactions, bargaining is still a part of the process. Whether you like
to bargain or not, you can control the situation by simply keeping the price of
the car totally separate from the discussion. Many sellers - especially dealers
- will try to convince you that the car you are looking at is the "ideal
car." While this may or may not be true, you should be sure in your own
mind that the car is worth the asking price based on a thorough inspection by
an independent technician or diagnostic service as well as your own research.
Above all, do not let yourself be pressurized into a deal.
Final note
Before buying a used car, get it checked by a mechanic or a
technician whom you trust. A used car may have major mechanical or structural
problems. Replacements of important parts may be costly and hard to find. The
seller/dealer may misrepresent the car's mileage or condition; and warranty
coverage may not be available.
